The grain is pronounced, but not unpleasant (to me). I will filter my chemicals to see if there is any chunky black stuff, but judging by what came out of the premoval process, I doubt I will see anything.įujifilm 8572 by James Harr's Photos, on Flickr I kept having to look at the images to tell which was which. There was no sign of remjet on the developed film. If people are interested, I can post uncorrected examples, but I scan and don't really wet print, so those wouldn't be relevant to me. The scanner was set to auto color-correct. I did not do any photoshopping on any of the examples. I rolled it, shot it and developed it (in the same tank as the premoval roll) just like any other roll of color neg film. This is the roll that did not get any special treatment. Click through to Flickr to see more examples.įujifilm 8572 Premoval by James Harr's Photos, on Flickr The damage might be chemical damage to the emulsion, so it might be worth trying a different agent (baking soda, washing soda, etc). The fogging I can attribute to the fact that I don't have a good dark place to dry it, but I could construct a drying cabinet without too much trouble. I did not do any 'mechanical' removal of remjet, just a vigorous agitation, literally shaking the tank. Scans were done with Epson Scan set on auto color control.įirst, the roll that I treated with borax for 15min. ![]() I am using Unicolor C-41 chemistry that is well beyond the manufacturer's recommended roll count (and still going strong - I dev'd 2 rolls of 120 Portra 160 after these). So the results are in, and they are not what I expected to see!! (note: these are shots just to test the method, not to create art)īoth rolls were shot at iso 400 in a Nikon N2020 with a Nikkor 50mm f/1.8. I will post samples to this thread when I get them shot and developed. This pic shows the premoved leader on the left and the untreated leader on the right. I left in on the spool in a dark closet over night. Rinse well with tap, finishing with distilled water and find a dark place to let it dry. What came out was a disappointingly weak green liquid. Let stand 15min (that is probably about 13min longer than necessary). I let that dissolve and poured it into the dev tank with the film. I am sending some rolls off to Indofunk, so I want to get the remjet off first to save him the hassle. I have read that with Fujifilm, remjet removal can be done very simply after normal processing, but if you are sending it off to a lab, you must remove the remjet first. I loaded a short test roll and another, I reeled up and decided to try the 'premoval' of the remjet. So I found not-too-long (160') respool of Fuji 8572 on the auction site from a vendor who was willing to come down to a reasonable price (¢25/ft incl shipping). Please if you can help me write a reply as I really enjoyed processing and want to do it more(apart from stuffing up the film a little bit).So I wanted to buy some cine film, but I didn't feel like paying the Cinestill price. ![]() I apologise in advance as these questions have probably really obvious answers. ![]() Does that mean developer never reached these parts? How do I make sure it does? There also seems to be some fully black lines around the bit of film with the letters Kodak 400tx. Looking at the negs now there is some sort of random line throughout the film that is a whiter colour compared to the rest of the film, along with some white dots that are the same colour as the line. Some of the shots are completely underexposed but that’s fine as I shot this with point and shoot + flash at night (which is exactly why I used it as a test roll) But after the water wash at the end this tinge went away? Why? When I got the film out of the tank I was freaking out because most of the film was a purple tinge and I was afraid I had underdeveloped it. I developed a roll of 36 exp TMAX-400 My method was: Kodak D-76 diluted 1:1 for 12.5 min Used water as a stopper for 1 min Ilford rapid fix for 8 min Water rinse for about 5 min
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